24h May270 miles into Malta we stumbled across an island. It even had a
lighthouse on top and was fairly big. Double checked the paper and electronic
charts
and no mention of it. Can it be possible that there is an uncharted island
in the middle of the Mediterranean ? Still couldn't believe it, once more
checked in Jimmy Cornell's World Cruising Routes and no mention of it.
26th May
With prevailing westerly winds and current, heading West in
the Med is not much fun. The engine has been heavily used and tested, the only way
to progress westward. The good news is that the engine is behaving well, the bad
news is that if we get in before running out of fuel ,it will be pure
luck. As we approach Malta the traffic of cargo ships is intensifying, but
the ships are considerate, unlike in other parts of the world ,where at
places we have been almost run over.
27th May
14 miles out of Malta
the westerly winds straightened to 20 knots, why can we have for once an
easy passage? Bashing against rough seas stirred all the dirt in the
almost empty fuel tank, now we are worried that it will
block the filters, which would stop the engine working. So sails came out
and we tacked until the entrance of Marsamxett Bay. Somehow the
engine worked all the way to the fuel barge and we got the so needed
diesel. The staff from the barge told us that we will be in big trouble
for stopping prior to checking in. But who cares, we need fuel. After that
we were directed to Grand Harbour for checking in. Took us some time to
find out that the only way to check in is via a marina acting as an agent,
but when we found out the price of Grand Harbour Marina we almost collapsed.
Still getting used with European prices. No mention from customs of
stopping before clearing in.
Valetta is magnificent,
bearing in mind that the city got heavily bombarded by neighboring Italy
and then the Germans in 1941, the city still has a lot of old buildings, and what it
was rebuilt ,blends in well making a very charming place. During WWII the
Maltese were reduced to living in rubles and near starvation until an oil
tanker broke through the blitz bringing much needed oil to the island. The
Maltese were collectively awarded the George Cross for their bravery.
28th
May
Suffering from severe hangover. After 3 years we met up with Kai. He
started with us the circumnavigation, from UK to Spain. Now he joined us
to finish the trip, all the way until Gibraltar. It was 3 years of
catching up, that somehow included also the drinks.
Looking at the
weather Friday, tomorrow, is a good day to leave to Spain. Despite the
hangover, we did some provisioning and then it was an early night to leave
the following day.
30th May
What started as a nice trip with light
winds gradually changed approaching the narrow passage between Sicily
and Tunisia. It is only 60 miles wide and depths go from 2000 metres to 100
very quickly. It got quite rough at night with running seas and 25 knots
of winds, but at least it was coming from behind. Once through Skerri
Channel it all settled a bit, but it was a sleepless night.
31st May
Another
sleepless night, this time thunderstorms wide as 10 miles long as it
appeared
in the radar. The lightening was something we haven't seen before. The
whole sky lit up in a flash, then very heavy rain and an abrupt wind shift
of 180 degrees. Med sailing hasn't been fun at all. After the wind
shift the seas settled a little and we were motoring against light
headwinds. The barometer dropped almost 5 bars, so we knew we are in for
some more bad weather.
01st June
As morning came up a dark cloud
approached from ahead, I only thought that it will bring more rain. I was
wrong, from nowhere like if someone had switched the lights on the wind
picked up to 35 knots and pretty horrible seas. It was time to bail
out, all of us tired and the only course we could steer was to Sardinia, unfortunately
it was 35 miles away, another 6 hours of quite rough conditions. Settled
into a nice secluded bay in Teulada, South Sardinia.
02nd June
Rowed
ashore to find information about the weather and to stock up on the
dangerously low levels of beer. The harbour around the corner was a
military base and not much else around, besides a camping ground. All the
Italians could tell us about the weather was that the Mistral was in full
blow but it was settling in the evening. The Mistral can arrive and reach
gale force in as little as 15 minutes, on a calm sunny day with no
warning. Very relieved, we found a little
supermarket and bought beer and also a nice beach bar. After dinner we left for
the 250 miles to Porto Colom, in Mallorca.