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Galapagos Islands

A dozy puppy sea lion, woken up by our camera! 

05th May

We arrived yesterday in Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobal main island of Galapagos. When entering the bay we had a couple of sea lions jumping next to the boat, we were so flattered. We didn't know that they are  the main attraction of the village and are everywhere by the hundreds. Swimming amongst the boats, sun bathing on the beach and all around the pier . There are lots of puppies as well. We tried to clear in, only able to do Immigration. Tomorrow we will try to get a cruising permit with the Port Captain, he is the one who can allow us to visit other islands and determine the length of our stay. Apparently it works wanders to dress up smartly and show your best Spanish, we will see if it works - hopefully he is in a good mood tomorrow.

 

Two males having a head to head over a female!

 

 

06th May

So we went into the Port Captain's office and again we were told to come back tomorrow.  Then we took a trip around the island with an official guide and driver. His name was Carlos and although he is from mainland Ecuador, he has been living in this island for a while. First he took us to Galapageira, which is the conservation centre for the giant tortoises. Graham thought that Spielberg had his inspiration for the ET movie from these creatures! These impressive animals live up to 150 years and weigh up to 100 kg. They reach the adult life at 30 years old and from there on the females lay 12 eggs a year, only 2 to 3 being successful. And the babies are minute. Then he took us to a Finca, where fruits and veggies are grown, we had the best fruit salad in the world, with ice cream. Finally we went to a beach near Baquerizo to spot some iguanas. Quite ugly animals... But very impressive how they camouflage themselves in between the rocks. We almost walked over a few without realizing that they were there.

 

 

Iguana

7th May

Judit's birthday!!!! Well we saw the captain of the port, we can stay till Saturday but NOT visit any other islands. Spent hours watching the sea lions on the beach. The males have a harem of 20 females, they can weigh up to 200 kg and live up to 30 years. The sad part is that if humans touch the puppies, these can be rejected by the mother and die of hunger. So no stroking the pups even if they are so friendly and cute! We met a couple, Ben is English and Rosangela is Brasilian. They have been cruising for the last 3 years with their 2 kids. Same as us, they don't know were they want to live, so to avoid this problem they keep on the move.

 

Charles Darwin statue

8th May

Had Ben over in the morning for a chat. After the siesta we went into town to book a dive for Friday. The water is very cold here, but if we are lucky we will be able to see some Hammerhead sharks.

 

 

 

 

"Pepe" the 300 yr old Tortoise     

 

 

Diving with sea Lions

9th May

As we said farewell to Ben and Rosangela in "Zazoo" and watched them sail off ,we welcomed Pete and Felicity in "Nadezhda" who arrived today. We all met up at the internet cafe with another couple who arrived as well, Lil and Rob in "Mariah". Then Ivan, the owner of the diving shop where we booked our dives was passing by in his bike and saw the crowd, invited all us to take part of a film shoot for an Ecuadorian program about the Galapagos. We had to pretend we were a group of students having a dive debrief. At the end Graham was interviewed, Pete fancied the chance of being a star and asked to also be interviewed, even a bit to drunk to talk... Judit, on the other hand, was running away from the cameras. Because she was the only one who spoke Spanish in the group, was also interviewed.  Then we went to see and feed Pepe, a very special tortoise.

10th May

We met up in the afternoon with Felicity and Pete and hiked over to see the Charles Darwin statue. The route was scenic over some nice rocky bays. It is very arid inland with lots of tiny geckos and of course sea lions lying at the beach and rocks. We witnessed a sad happening, a puppy sea lion rejected by an entire group of adult sea lions... Before we got back to the boat, Fernando came to us. He act as  kind of an agent in this island selling diesel, tours at a very expensive price. We always refused to us him due to his high prices and also because he is very pushy. Well, he came threatening us that tomorrow we will get the visit of the Port Captain as we are not using his services and not recommending him to other yachties.  Putting in a very polite way on the web, we told him to get a life!!!!! At night we couldn't sleep as we had sea lion pups playing around and under the boat. They were under our cabin hitting the hull and using the sugar scoop as a diving platform.  

Leon Dormido, dive site. This is where it is possible to dive with hammerhead sharks, but it wasn't our lucky day...

 

11th May

Diving day! Me and G got picked up by the dive boat at 8.30 am. Before heading to the main dive site, we had a check out dive, at Lobos island. Then we went to Leon Dormido. There are two vertical walls  140m deep and the dive was through the gap. I had a 7mm wetsuit on, very thick. Graham had a normal full body wetsuit. The water temperature was 13 degrees. There were very strong currents which, were dangerous as they swept us against the walls, it wasn't all fun. But we saw a lot of eagle rays, a sting ray, turtles and lots of sea lions joined our dive, playing with the air bubbles. Both of us were so cold at the end of the dives that we refused to enter in the water again to snorkel with the sea lions. Later that night we invited Fliss n Pete and Lil n Rob over for a BBQ on our boat, as normal a lot of alcohol consumed!

12th May

We are leaving tomorrow to try to land at Isabella Island. We are not supposed to go there but we have heard friends landed there and the port captain is quite amicable. So today has been running around trying to provision for the next 4 weeks.

13th May

We went to checkout with the port captain and he told us that we are definitely not allowed to visit any other island. He knew 2 boats did this last week and if we did we were in big trouble. As it was Mother's Day here, everything was shut and we could not get our washing back from the laundry. So the port captain allowed us to stay till midday tomorrow. Nothing else to do but have another party with Pete n Fliss and Rob n Lil also Renald from "Pitanga" joined in.

!4th May 

Time to leave to Marquesas our biggest passage yet, only 2993 miles to go!  We will leave in style with a send off in fog horns from Nadezhda and Mariah, also playing AC/DC Thunderstruck loud!!!

 

A Pair of Eagle Rays

 

 

 


 

 

Blue Footed Boobie