Gibraltar- Isla Graciosa crossing

Day 1- 1st October

We left our mooring at 11 am , after saying our goodbyes to Noel and Natalie. Getting out of the Straits of Gibraltar was hard work, fighting against currents  up to 3 knots in areas and clearing off the busy shipping lanes leading to the Mediterranean. Finally we were in safe waters after Cabo Espartel just before sunset.  Ahead of us by a few miles were Checkmate and Astreaus, all heading to Isla Graciosa in a convoy. We kept contact on radio VHF channel 72 at 1800hrs. Just before sunset we heard on the radio that Checkmate caught a fish -"only a little one". Not long after Astreaus also announced "Catch 2 of the day". We unbelievable caught 4 fishes and lost all of them while hauling in. 

Day 2- 2nd October

Calm seas and no winds, we had been motoring most of the way so far. It was the perfect weather for the cruising chute, never used before. It has blue and yellow stripes, Judit though that looked like a Swedish flag. Just as we were getting our dinner ready (pasta) the fishing rod started ticking , we caught the 5th fish! Graham fought with the fish for a good 10 minutes it was a big one! We managed to haul it in, and it was a beautiful fish with greeny bluish skin about  3kg. Even feeling sorry for it Judit whacked it on the head with a winch handle. That didn't kill it. Then we poured  brandy on its mouth which did the job. At least the brandy was  cheap.. From the sea the fish went straight to oven to plate in 1hr.

Day 3/4 - 3rd October

Another calm day where we had to engine, but it all changed in  the afternoon when we could sail. Gradually the wind increased through the night and continued increasing during the next day. At that point we lost contact with Checkmate  who headed East towards Morocco as they could not run with the wind ( wind coming from behind ). At that point we were alone in the middle of a big storm with seas swelling. The last 24 hours were with no sleep, even tired we could not rest as Nomad Life was being thrown every direction and staying still in bed was impossible. 

Day 5 - 5th October

The critical point came in the early hours of the morning, when both were complete knackered, the sea state was confused, waves coming from all directions and we were getting knocked about. When day light came, we saw the size of the waves coming from behind!!!!! From there on we just kept looking forward until we saw land. That was a relief, but we still had some hours ahead of us and massive waves behind- about 4 metres. It was scary. We got into Caleta del Sebo at 3pm just to be told that the marina was complete full. Dropping the anchor was the hardest job of the whole trip , as we were so tired. Astreaus was already in but no sign of Checkmate until we went to bed, at 8pm. They came in at 1 am. Big thanks to Tony, John and Jan on Checkmate for looking after us during the trip and sharing some great laughing moments with us the following days!!

10 Oct

Nomi has been lifted and the new seacock has been fitted she is now afloat again. presently in Lanzarote...A few more bits to fix we need a new windlass and a hydraulic pump for the auto helm.

11 Oct

Still in Marina Rubicon next to Playa Blanca Lanzarote, trying to get the auto helm and windlass fixed. Will stay here another week minimum as tomorrow is a fiesta day and nothing open till Monday. Hoping to get to Arrecife to check out the chandlery shops next week.

15th Oct

Still here due to fiestas and weekends can not get the parts till Monday. getting a lot sorted on the boat though. Today is rest day!!

18th Oct

Still same place and both of us getting restless, Autohelm is now repaired just a rolled pin was the problem. But we have waited 4 days now for some new brushes and a spring for the windlass. Ah !Spanish time manana.. 

20th October

All fixed now the parts came to £10, labour £290, still cheaper than new!! Soon we will be ready to anchor outside the marina at Playa Dourada.

26th Oct

Ducked back into the marina as the weather was getting nasty and the boat's movement was quite sickening. Bad weather forecasted to last 2 days with swells and force 6 winds , the sea looks nasty out there. What was a busy anchorage at Playa Dourada now is virtually empty.

27th Oct

Time to go, the marina was almost empty by 12 noon, loads of boats took advantage of fair weather and departed, including all those ones we had contact during our stay in Lanzarote: the American Reliant, Barbarossa, and the charming Swiss couple who were moored next to us, Doris and Regis ( sorry we didn't pick up their boat name). The marina staff were dubious that we were going as we came back so many times. Now is resting, time to discover new bays, nice places in Fuerteventura and sail- which we haven't done in almost one month!!

30th Oct- Fuerteventura

11am

Great news, Graham has passed his Ocean Yachmaster theory, worth a few beers today.. We are in Fueventura and waiting for wind to sail over to Gran Canaria. This island is not geared up for sailing with very few anchorages that are protected.

18 pm

Celebrating with a few beers and enjoying sunset - I am proud of Graham!!!! . We are in a little cove no boats around us, there is a sandy beach with black volcanic sand, in front of us and a great rocky mountain on our left, with a light house on top of it. The town , Tarajal , on our right, is tiny with only the essentials . Tomorrow is a snorkeling day around the rocky mountain. 

1st Nov

Unfortunately we had nothing but rain for the last couple of days, so snorkeling and beach barbecue has been cancelled. But still warm , rain is forecasted for the next couple of days. We are moving on today to Gran Canaria, leaving in the afternoon and sailing 100 miles through the night .

3rd Nov

We left Fuerteventura at 5 pm, the actual coastline of the island is very scenic, full of volcanic mountains all bare with no vegetation at all. There are some lovely bays craved in the mountains were is possible to anchor but not protected from southerly winds. We were 10 miles offshore when suddenly couple of fins appeared ahead of us, I think we entered a dolphin zone, after a while it was about 50 of them in a space of 1 mile ahead of the boat just popping up from everywhere. I was on the helm, Graham went to the bow and there were around 5 dolphins playing with the bow, surfing on the waves. We never been so close to a dolphin before, we could hear them and their breathing. They are very curious animals, even under the water they kept turning sideways to look at us and the boat, probably wandering what a funny shaped creatures we are. A bit latter we saw , what we believe ,were pilot whales , a lot bigger and where traveling on threes, resting longer on the surface.

Gran Canaria and Tenerife

First stop was Pasito Blanco. The marina is in a residential area, so very quiet, there is one beach nearby and that is it! Maspalomas, a big tourist resort, is near by but impossible to get to, as there is a big golf course and volcanic mountains between. Today was another working day getting Nomi ready for the crossing. Hilary, Graham's sister arrived the following day for one week, also Dan joined us a week early. We left for Puerto Mogan the day after, with winds gusting near 30 and some swells which quickly died and the final part of the journey we had to motor. We anchored outside the marina, near some caves and impressive cliffs, but it was a rolly night and for the landlubbers it was a new experience. But worst was to come, in terms of anchorage... Next destination was Abona, in Tenerife. Between the islands there is an acceleration zone where winds can pick up from 5 knots to 30 in a blink of the eye. We saw some high seas and very quickly we were down to the third reef, almost everybody had their fair share of wash from the waves, except Hilary, who being only the passenger excused herself from any duties and tucked herself behind the bimini! 

Now the landlubbers experienced the worst anchorage possible in Abona, and cooking was a task. It was again a rocky night. Unfortunately the Canaries is not blessed with the best of anchorages, finding a good sheltered bay from all winds is difficult. We rounded Ponta Rasca, South corner of the island and headed to Los Gigantes, a little tourist resort with spectacular volcanic cliffs just off the beach, sweeping 7 miles to the southeast. Finally we all had a good night sleep safely in the marina. The marina was somewhat in decay, the pontoons where old and with holes in places and the showers had seen better days, the staff were apologetic, explaining that there are due a refurbishment and the marina will be completely renewed for next year. A couple of days of rest. Hilary got her well awaited sunbathing days by the pool.

Soon it was time to head back to Puerto Mogan as it was coming to the end of Hilary's holiday. Dan left us that day, due to a hip injury he no longer would be able to do the crossing with us. It was a motoring day back to Gran Canaria  with no winds and the sea flat, but the 12 hours crossing was fun, we saw loads of pilot whales and dolphins. We arrived in the evening in Puerto Mogan and again anchored outside the marina. Every marina in the area is full because of the ARC  so finding a spot is impossible .  And the last night, before Hilary left was a heavy session, but was great fun.  

La Gomera

The island is lush with  green valleys encrusted in mountains. Luckily for the boys we anchored outside a nudist beach, playa  Chinguarime . As usual was another rolly night. After that we were longing for a marina, to get the boat ready for the journey and relax.
The king of Spain and his wife, Juan Carlos and Sofia  just arrived in La Gomera for an official visit. And of course to wish us a good trip and fair weather, not really!.

The atmosphere in the marina is something special, all boats getting ready for the crossing, everybody excited, discussing weather and when is the best time to leave. We did our last shopping and for that we rented a car, we also took the opportunity to go around the island. The Valle Gran Rei is something to see, apparently a Mecca for an alternative society. Also the National Park of Garajonay is spectacular with dense dark forest. Certainly an island not to be missed.

26 Nov

We just said our farewell to Bertus, "the crazy Dutch man" who did the OSTAR (Observer Single Handed Transatlantic Race) 4 times. He even met Ellen McArther. Bound for Barbados, the island of his dreams, single-handed again. Bon Voyage, Bert.