|
| |
|
Martinique
|
|
|
We arrived a week before
Christmas, the 18th. We tried desperately to get a berth in the marina.
After 1 night wait we got in but only till the 23rd. These 4 days we
cleaned, repaired and serviced, restocked and got emails. We rented a car
and drove around the island with Bertus. |
|
|
| Banana plantations |
|
|
|
|

|
During our car trip we
visited St Pierre, the old capital of
the island. When Mount Pelee erupted in 1902 it killed all the
inhabitants. The only survivor was a prison inmate, called Auguste Cyparis,
the thickness of the walls saved him. After that the
capital became Forte-de-France. We drove back through banana and sugar cane
plantations. The locals are genuinely friendly and very welcoming. We also
tried some Creole cuisine, very spicy! |
|
|
| Diamond Rock.
In 1804 The Brits put 20 sailors and 4 cannons on this rock. Raised to status
of HMS Diamond Rock, it was only taken when the French wrecked a boat
laden with rum on the island. The Brits obviously got drunk and then
surrendered
|
Christmas was spent in a nice
secluded bay in Cul-de-Sac du Marin. At last we had our well deserved rest
after the crossing. Thankfully to Graham's mum, Hilary, Tomas and Maria we had Christmas
presents to open. Neither of us bought presents for each other as we
had no time. We were over the moon with one box which was full of mince
pies, Christmas pudding and cake, along with an instant custard mix , even
two crackers! Just when Graham thought it was time to buy a new pair of
shorts, he got some from Tomas and Maria. |
|
|
|
Saint Lucia |
|
|
|
|
Rodney Bay -30 December 2006 Here we are in this beautiful
wide bay, with white sandy beaches ,
Pigeon Island to our left. The bay is famous with the ARC and English sailors but
although there are a few boats anchored its not so crowded. This was a pleasant
surprise for us. We arrived yesterday and after making sure the anchor dug
in we opened a few cans of beer watching the sun go down. As it went down
we saw the "green flash" all the yank boats started cheering and
sounded their foghorns. Today we took a dingy ride into the
marina , to go to the customs building. The whole process was bureaucratic and we
had to pay a small fee. We also had a walk around Gross Islet, the
local village.
This was the real St Lucia, full of colour and vibrant . The locals are not so friendly
as Martinique, we later found out that France gives a lot of subsidies to
Martinique,
and St Lucian's are a lot poorer. |
|
|
 |
Marigot Bay- 31 December This is a picturesque small bay surrounded by mountains, mangroves and
plenty of palm trees. The bay is very crowded with yachts and finding a
space for us wasn't easy. We were bombarded by boat boys trying to sell us
mooring buoys at £12. We found a nice spot and dropped the hook, no
charge! After that all the boat boys were trying to sell us: bananas, avocadoes,
bread and ganja. There are only 3 restaurants inside of the
bay, 2 very expensive hotels and a small marina. After looking at the
prices for New Year's Eve dinner we decided to celebrate 2007 on the boat. All
about £40 per head not including tax 10% and only 1 drink.
From our anchorage we had the best view of the fireworks. Each restaurant organized their own fire work
display, one
after another. So in total the whole spectacle lasted about 20 minutes.
|
|
|
| 02 January 2007 Now we were ready to head back to Martinique,
planning to stop on
the way in Rodney Bay. But it wasn't our day to leave. Our batteries were completely
flat and we couldn't even start the engine. Probably the batteries
got damaged during the short circuit that happened during the Atlantic crossing.
There was not much left to do but wait until our wind generator charged
them up. While waiting we got chatting with one of the boat boys, called
Samuel. He was an avid Rastafarian and he taught us a bit about
his religion and faith.
|
|
|
|
|
Back to Martinique |
|
|
|
04 January 2007
Batteries charged and finally we
could leave to Rodney Bay and the following day to Fort-de-France.
According to the pilot book this is the most pleasant sail in the whole
area. As we left Rodney Bay we were met with rough seas and force 6 winds,
taking waves on the side. At one point we thought in going back to the
safety of the bay. Once we were well clear off land, the seas calmed down and the
wind became a pleasant force 4. It was a great sail up to Diamond Rock and
then to Solomon Point. Then from nowhere we got hit with 38 knot gusts
and rain. We were exhilarated when we finally arrived at Anse Mitan.
|
|
|
| 06 January 2007 Today we went over to Fort-de-France for a bit of shopping, not for us
but for the boat. This will be the only big town for a while and we
needed charts and bits for the boat. There is a ferry from Point de Bout
to the town, which is a short ride with dingy. The town is quite decadent
in places, the buildings are colonial but in need of a lick of paint.
There is not many historical monuments as Fort-de-France had a few
catastrophes during its time. At the local market we ate some
accras and colombo chicken, some of the island specialties. Exhausted
we headed back to our mooring. In the evening we had a look around
Anse Mitan. Even full of nice restaurants the area was deserted, we
wandered the reason as it is high season. At the local bar we met a nice Rasta man
called Claude, a true "one world one love" man. With our very little French and his very little English we
had a few drinks and he told us about life in Martinique. The
Martiniqueans class themselves as Europeans and they reject the fact that
most of them are descendents of Africans. Their language Creole ,
which is a mix of African and French, was until 20 years ago forbidden to
speak and not taught at school. Following day we anchored in Trois-Islets,
another bay opposite Fort-de-France
|
Local market in Le Savanna,
Fort-de-France. |
 |
|
 |
09 January 2007 Back to St-Pierre, this time sailing. The plan was to stay only one
night and then go to Dominica. But we loved the place so we stayed a bit longer. We
visited the old prison where Cyparis was locked and saved by the
devastation of the town by the volcano. Yesterday we visited the
local market and bought loads of local specialties, such as yam-yam
and Christophines. Later on we witnessed a little girl being run over
by a car, but she didn't suffer injuries. Now we are suffering from
hangover as we had a heavy rum drinking session on Isabella. This is a
Taiwanese built boat , the owners are a German couple, Juergen and Bibi.
They keep Isabella in Le Marin and cruise the area on holidays. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Mount
Pelee, erupted in 1902 last. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|