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Martinique

                         We arrived a week before Christmas, the 18th. We tried desperately to get a berth in the marina. After 1 night wait we got in but only till the 23rd. These 4 days we cleaned, repaired and serviced, restocked and got emails. We rented a car and drove around the island with Bertus.   
Banana plantations

  During our car trip we visited St Pierre, the old capital of the island. When Mount Pelee erupted in 1902 it killed all the inhabitants. The only survivor was  a prison inmate, called Auguste Cyparis, the thickness of the walls saved him. After that the capital became Forte-de-France. We drove back through banana and sugar cane plantations. The locals are genuinely friendly and very welcoming. We also tried some Creole cuisine, very spicy! 
Diamond Rock.

 In 1804 The Brits put 20 sailors and 4 cannons on this rock. Raised to status of HMS Diamond Rock, it was only taken when the French wrecked a boat laden with rum on the island. The Brits obviously got drunk and then surrendered

 

Christmas was spent in a nice secluded bay in Cul-de-Sac du Marin. At last we had our well deserved rest after the crossing. Thankfully to Graham's mum, Hilary, Tomas and Maria we had Christmas presents to open. Neither of us bought presents for each other as  we had no time. We were over the moon with one box which was full of mince pies, Christmas pudding and cake, along with an instant custard mix , even two crackers! Just when Graham thought it was time to buy a new pair of shorts, he got some from Tomas and Maria.   

 

 

Saint Lucia

Rodney Bay -30 December 2006

Here we are in this  beautiful  wide bay, with white sandy beaches , Pigeon Island to our left. The bay is famous with the ARC and English sailors but although there are a few boats anchored its not so crowded. This was a pleasant surprise for us. We arrived yesterday and after making sure the anchor dug in we opened a few cans of beer watching the sun go down. As it went down we saw the "green flash" all the yank boats started cheering and sounded their foghorns. Today we took a dingy ride into the marina , to go to the customs building. The whole process was bureaucratic and we had to pay a small fee. We also had a walk around  Gross Islet, the local village. This was the real St Lucia, full of colour and vibrant . The locals are not so friendly as Martinique, we later found out that France gives a lot of subsidies to Martinique, and St Lucian's are a lot poorer. 

Marigot Bay- 31 December

This is a picturesque small bay surrounded by mountains, mangroves and plenty of palm trees. The bay is very crowded with yachts and finding a space for us wasn't easy. We were bombarded by boat boys trying to sell us mooring buoys at £12. We found a nice spot and dropped the hook, no charge! After that all the boat boys were trying to sell us: bananas, avocadoes, bread and ganja.  There are only 3 restaurants inside of the bay, 2 very expensive hotels and a small marina.   After looking at the prices for New Year's Eve dinner we decided to celebrate 2007 on the boat. All  about £40 per head not including tax 10% and only 1 drink. From our anchorage we had the best view of the fireworks. Each restaurant organized their own fire work display, one after another. So in total the whole spectacle lasted about 20 minutes.

  

02 January 2007

Now we were ready to head back to   Martinique, planning to stop on the way in Rodney Bay. But it wasn't our day to leave. Our batteries were completely flat  and we couldn't even start the engine. Probably the batteries got damaged during the short circuit that happened during the Atlantic crossing. There was not much left to do but wait until our wind generator charged them up. While waiting we got chatting with one of the boat boys, called Samuel. He was an avid Rastafarian and he taught us a bit about his religion and faith.  

 

Back to Martinique
04 January 2007

Batteries charged and finally we could leave to Rodney Bay and the following day to Fort-de-France. According to the pilot book this is the most pleasant sail in the whole area. As we left Rodney Bay we were met with rough seas and force 6 winds, taking waves on the side. At one point we thought in going back to the safety of the bay. Once we were well clear off land, the seas calmed down and the wind became a pleasant force 4. It was a great sail up to Diamond Rock and then to Solomon Point. Then from nowhere we got hit  with 38 knot gusts and rain. We were exhilarated when we finally arrived at Anse Mitan.

06 January 2007

Today we went over to Fort-de-France for a bit of shopping, not for us but for the boat.  This will be the only big town for a while and we needed charts and bits for the boat. There is a ferry from Point de Bout to the town, which is a short ride with dingy. The town is quite decadent in places, the buildings are colonial but in need of a lick of paint. There is not many historical monuments as Fort-de-France had a few catastrophes during its time.  At the local  market we ate some accras and colombo chicken, some of the island specialties.  Exhausted we headed back to  our mooring. In the evening we had a look around Anse Mitan. Even full of nice restaurants the area was deserted, we wandered the reason as it is high season. At the local bar we met a nice Rasta man called Claude, a true "one world one love" man. With our very little French and his very little English we had a few drinks and he told us about life in Martinique. The Martiniqueans class themselves as Europeans and they reject the fact that most of them are descendents of Africans.  Their language Creole , which is a mix of African and French, was until 20 years ago forbidden to speak and not taught at school.

Following day we anchored in Trois-Islets, another bay opposite Fort-de-France

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Local market in Le Savanna, Fort-de-France.
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Martinique 035.jpg (218284 bytes) 09 January 2007

Back to St-Pierre, this time sailing. The plan was to stay only one night and then go to Dominica. But we loved the place so we stayed a bit longer. We visited the old prison where Cyparis was locked and saved by the devastation of the town by the volcano.  Yesterday we visited the local market and bought loads of local  specialties, such as yam-yam and Christophines. Later on we witnessed a little girl being run over by a car, but she didn't suffer injuries. Now we are suffering from hangover as we had a heavy rum drinking session on Isabella. This is a Taiwanese built boat , the owners are a German couple, Juergen and Bibi. They keep Isabella in Le Marin and cruise the area on holidays. 

Mount Pelee, erupted in 1902 last.